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Thread: BIG TRUCKS : Marks F700

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    Default BIG TRUCKS : Marks F700

    Attachment 8606Attachment 8601Attachment 8605Attachment 8604Attachment 8603Attachment 8602Well this is cool, a few old F700 4x4 Fords! I'm a little premature for a build thread, I was going to wait until I was almost done, but there is some motivation here and I could probably get some great input here, maybe somebody could use a little advice too, who knows, all I know is my truck is being built for my needs and for North American adventure so here goes:

    My truck is a 1996 Ford F-700 4x4 crew cab, it came withe a 429 gas, 5 speed, Rockwell T126 transfer case, Marmon MT10 front drive axle with 5.89 gears. The dump bed was removed and the frame extended 4 feet on the tail end, I replaced the outer rail all the way back to the cab to clean things up and get rid of all the holes. Next the 429 came out along with the 5 speed and I dropped a 5.9 Cummins in with a Fuller RTO4606 6 speed trans with overdrive. The transfer case was in good shape but a weakling T126 with the very ugly front output so I bought a rebuilt air shifted Rockwell T136 and mounted it in place, much nicer and less shift linkage. I replaced the front springs with a set of parabolic leafs along with all new hangers and bushed shackles, and to match the front I bought a used Peterbilt low air leaf rear suspension, rebuilt it, fabbed the drop bracketry and mounted all the soft riding stuff.

    Now it was time to get the cab cleaned up but I found some hidden rust in really crappy places. So, I bought a mint 1996 F-350 crew cab diesel. I parted the truck out at a profit and now have a mint rust free fully loaded F-700, I even found a set of Lariat leather seats to make it a little sexier and comfy. The 5.9 is equipped with an air compressor so I mounted a 10 gallon air tank for a reservoir for the suspension and air controls, but also ran lines to front rear and center with quick couplers. I then fabbed a battery box to hold 4 Odyssey Group 31 dry cell batteries. It now runs and moves under it's own power, just some clean up left and paint the front end to match the cab.

    Now the camper. I have 2 fantastic rugrats that are finding the beauty of the outdoors but they are still kids with a pretty short attention span so there will be some modern entertainment on board, in the cab and in the camper so those were some of my requirements. We built the frame as follows: Main sills are 6" aluminum channel, the crossmembers are 4" aluminum channel on 16" centers, the perimeter at the base and supporting the overhead is 2x4x.188 aluminum tubing, the vertical and roof perimeter is 2x4x.125 aluminum tubing, the wall "studs" are 1.5x.188 aluminum tubing, all the door and window radius's were laser cut from .250 aluminum and the whole works was fully welded, no loose ends. The camper will be mounted with shear plates at the rear and our spring loaded mounts along the remainder of the sill with a rubber insert on top of the frame rail for isolation. The roof and front are sheeted with DiBond composite panels and the rest might get done soon if my shedule permits.

    That's all I have for now, here are some pics and I'll post a couple more later.

    The finishing plan is to spray foam the entire unit then sheet the inside. I am using a 25 000 BTU propane furnace along with a propane stove, oven, and fridge. I know of the negative aspects of propane but we are using all industrial/oilfield rated fittings and lines rather than typical RV crap. What I do like about propane is the fast cooking, it works great on the permanently mounted swing out and slide out barbeque and side burner for the steak and lobsquirrel dinners outside, plus we have a 200 liter frame mounted tank that we can fill by the liter rather than get raped with cylinder fill charges. We have a 30" fullsized fiberglass 1 piece shower along with a toilet inside, along with an outside shower that is turning out really good. The rear is getting a queen sized bed for the wife and I, the kids are bunking in the overhead, all of the window are thermal with 4 of the incorporating escape hatches as well as 2 escape hatches in the overhead just in case.

    Now here is something you can all flame me for, I am putting a slide in! There is a 72x36" slide on the driver side. I am building full bearing supported slide mechanisms along with a very substantial structure around the opening, I do not anticipate any other issues other than a huge increase in interior space. We build some pretty warm and cool airtight equipment that works from the Arctic circle and Alaska all the way to to the deep south of Texas, Louisiana, and Mississippi.

    All in all this thing should give us all the room we need, we tow a Jeep along with a couple of bikes and sometimes a boat, depending on what we are up to so it will be nice to have the proper chassis to handle the load and get us a little ways off the beaten path. We have been off road camping for over 20 years and have a lot of experience there, we also spend a lot of time in remote locations on very rough roads for a living so there is quite a lot of experience being applied to the build. Thanks for the kick in the a$$ Mr Suave, we will have to prove that tequila can cause a pile up faster than a computer one of these times!

    PS if somebody can get the pics to show up, please feel free, I'm tired!
    Last edited by Jeep; 08-12-2010 at 10:16PM. Reason: Add PS

  2. #2
    Junior Member Joaquin Suave's Avatar
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    Bravo Mark! Man you are really kicking some butt!

    Now here is something you can all flame me for, I am putting a slide in! There is a 72x36" slide on the driver side. I am building full bearing supported slide mechanisms along with a very substantial structure around the opening, I do not anticipate any other issues other than a huge increase in interior space. We build some pretty warm and cool airtight equipment that works from the Arctic circle and Alaska all the way to to the deep south of Texas, Louisiana, and Mississippi
    No flaming from me Mark! I'm sure that you'll make it killer.
    Quick question...What are you doing for a parking brake?

    Thanks for the kick in the a$$ Mr Suave, we will have to prove that tequila can cause a pile up faster than a computer one of these times!
    Hey no problem! You know me...I have no problem "rattling cages". As far as sharing a little cactus juice, it will have to be down my way...Because the only place I want to see ice...Is in my Margarita!
    Last edited by Joaquin Suave; 08-13-2010 at 11:34AM.

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    You noticed the lack of the hydraulic park brake pots did you? I bought a transmission mounted brake from Fuller. much cleaner and a lot less to go wrong than with the Lucas set up.

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    Made in Brazil JackSilb's Avatar
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    You guys will give me lots to read and see on your rigs. THANK YOU for sharing with us.

    Mr. Suave, we end not talking. Sorry, had too much going on this week. I will give you a call this week.

    Take care,
    -JACK

    p.s. I fixed the problem of inline pictures not showing.
    Last edited by JackSilb; 08-14-2010 at 08:17AM.
    So much to see, so little time. Try using your 4WD to see and do more.
    Tread Lightly! Please, don't use the environment to enjoy your truck.

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    Mark-

    This is a great build, I can't wait to see how it turns out. I have a few questions for you. Are you going to add another fuel tank? What is the top speed of your truck? Will the cabin hace ac? And are you going to have a passageway between the cab and cabin?

    Hani

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    Mark,
    Nice jungle gym :-). I am still in the planning stages for my camper design. I have two questions for you. How much clearance are you allowing between the truck cab and the camper overhang? What kind of mounting set up will you be using to mount the camper to the truck frame? I will re-read the thread again in case those were already answered. I am looking forward to see and learn more about your project.

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    Junior Member Joaquin Suave's Avatar
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    Hope you don't mind me also answering your questions Swen,

    My cab-over is about 3/8" above cab and there is about 1/2" gap between the cab and the box. I mounted my box with U-bolts, a plate against the frame, a die spring on each side, then another plate, and the nuts. Super simple (and cheap) and, I had no problems after about 13 years of use.
    Last edited by Joaquin Suave; 08-17-2010 at 01:18PM.

    http://www.overlandhardware.com/
    Arroyo Grande, Alta California
    Rancho Oceano, Baja California Norte
    ______________________________________
    A computer lets you make more mistakes faster than any invention in human history - with the possible exceptions of 4x4's, handguns, and tequila.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Joaquin Suave View Post
    Hope you don't mind me also answering your questions Swen,

    My cab-over is about 3/8" above cab and there is about 1/2" gap between the cab and the box. I mounted my box with U-bolts, a plate against the frame, a die spring on each side, then another plate, and the nuts. Super simple (and cheap) and, I had no problems after about 13 years of use.
    Thanks Jack,
    I should have read this thread first, because that would have answered my questions I just asked in your thread. I figured it would take more room between the sleeper part and the cab. I am worried about hitting the two when crossing a ditch or under extreme flex of the frame. I can already make my flatbed hit the bottom of the cab and that is solid bolted to the truck frame. I will have to do some testing after I pull the bed off and see how much twist I will have. I am planning on solid bolting it by the rear axle and then have a similar way of yours in the middle and up front.

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    Quote Originally Posted by hdemetrious View Post
    Mark-

    This is a great build, I can't wait to see how it turns out. I have a few questions for you. Are you going to add another fuel tank? What is the top speed of your truck? Will the cabin hace ac? And are you going to have a passageway between the cab and cabin?

    Hani
    Hey Hani, I buillt a custom 2 compartment fuel tank that sits on the drivers side, I'll post a pic when I get a chance. It has 75 gallon capacity in the main compartment and 30 gallons in the auxilliary section. Both tanks have a water trap and drain built in. The truck was equipped with AC from the factory and the replacement cab has AC as well so I will definitely retain that, I couldn't imagine the kids screaming because of the 70mph wind through the cab,hmmmmmm, that might also be a solution to not hear the kids!

    I haven't calculated the top speed but the 429 could go 70mph down hill with a tailwind, the Cummins has been tuned and regoverned just a little and with the overdrive and a switch to 11R22.5 tires from 10R22.5's I hope to have a comfortable cruising speed of 70mph. JS just jammed a cummins in his rig and is happy with the power, we haven't compared gear ratio's but his is up and rolling, mine is just up for lot drives right now. I should probably calculate the speed just to see how close I am.

    I was initially going to put in a pass through, there are a ton of benefits and some free cab space when setting up in one spot for more than a day or two would be very useful. BUT, my wife loves a nice kitchen and deleting the pass through really opened the available kitchen area up, so we are running the kitchen across the entire front instead, the dinette will be in the slide and that layout really opened up the floor nicely. I was going to do a complete lift top too but I really had to evaluate my time and it just did not fit into my schedule.

    Cheers,
    Mark.

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    Quote Originally Posted by vikingswen View Post
    Thanks Jack,
    I should have read this thread first, because that would have answered my questions I just asked in your thread. I figured it would take more room between the sleeper part and the cab. I am worried about hitting the two when crossing a ditch or under extreme flex of the frame. I can already make my flatbed hit the bottom of the cab and that is solid bolted to the truck frame. I will have to do some testing after I pull the bed off and see how much twist I will have. I am planning on solid bolting it by the rear axle and then have a similar way of yours in the middle and up front.
    Holy that's tight Jack! I went with 3 1/2" clearance from the roof of the cab to the bottom of the overhang and I am 1 1/2" from the back of the cab. My truck runs a shear plate at the rear of the frame and I built a "fancy" mount that does exactly what a u bolt and spring do. If I figured I could have saved a few inches I would have. My truck is 11.5' tall already. Here is a pic of the flexible mount on another truck I built.Attachment 8635This mount works good when attaching to an aluminum frame member.

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